Perfect Vision inline amp is your friend... :)


#16

Thanks for your suggestions.


#17

Are you guys using DC blocks to prevent a shorting opportunity at the antenna? I would assume if you have a shorted coco you would have to get a DC block.


#18

Yes I have a DC blocker between the amp & antenna. More for peace of mind as my antenna elements are not shorted by design.

And, I checked the DC power inserter with an Ohm meter to make sure DC was blocked from getting to the dongle as well.

…Tom


#19

So, I found the power inserter from my old DirecTV setup. I got excited and plugged stuff in without paying attention and fried my ads-b stick. Can you verify the proper way to connect that into the setup? Also, I have been using the antenna that came with the ADS-B Stick. Should I stick with that for now or would you suggest a new antenna? I’m not sure what to use. I suppose I could solder one together too? Suggestions on that? I don’t have a good place to put it other than hanging it out a second story window.

Thanks in advance!
Jeff

Edit: Also, before I make an Amazon order would you suggest buying anything else? I added the amp into my cart. I have a diplexer laying around that I can use. Really the only thing I think I need is a better antenna.


#20

I’d suggest a DC block or two? Also on Amazon.

cheers–

bob k6rtm

(and don’t feel bad – I’ve done worse, setting up a sequencer incorrectly, and putting 50 watts of RF into the output of a very low noise amplifier. PFFFT!)


#21

Here’s the idea. But, if you test the power inserter to verify that it doesn’t pass DC to the dongle, than the first DC blocker can be omitted.

Dongle—DCBlocker—PowerInserter—AMP—DCBlocker—Antenna

As the for antenna, suggestions look at this thread.
ads-b-flight-tracking-f21/3-easy-antennas-for-beginners-t20177.html

I’ve built a few versions of the spider with great success.
Good luck, Tom


#22

Thanks guys. I guess I’m still confused on the direction that both the power inserter and amp need to go in? I think the rest is pretty straight forward. I think I’ll make one of the 8 leg antennas. Looks easy enough and I’m not afraid to use a soldering iron. Problem now is I need to find $70 to buy all of the stuff I need for this! :smiley:


#23

Try the 4-legged version first, as I’ve seen no difference between the 8 or 4 legged versions in my set-up.


#24

…or a ‘cantenna’. Besides the can, all you need is a drill, tin snips, a simple female-female F connector, and a bit of wire. 30 minutes and you’ll have a nicely tuned antenna. Roof mounted and amplified gives great results. My primary unit is roof mounted, the other is inside my living room near a wall: http://flightaware.com/adsb/stats/user/arerecich


#25

Might look into that one first. I think I already have the parts for that! I guess I just need to get a new adsb stick since I fried the other one.


#26

Quick follow up. The new dongle will be in tomorrow. I just finished building a cantenna and plan to use that as soon as I get the new dongle. I haven’t gotten the dc blockers yet, but they will be in early next week by the look of it along with the amp (pvla30). Here is my plan on how to hook it up, correct me if I’m wrong please! Let me know where you think I should put the amp when it comes in or if I should also move anything else around in order. Thank you!

Cantenna/antenna ----- dcblocker (when they come in) ----- in/out on Diplexer (pvdp3) Sat (output on diplexer) ---- Directv Power inserter (power to swm port) ---- Out of the inserter on signal to ird ---- dc blocker ---- dongle on RPi

Let me know if you need clarification on anything. Thanks in advance for the help!


#27

Okay… Silly question: What does the amplifier consider to be In and Out?

Should it be:
Antenna>In–PVLA30–Out>Power Inserter
or
Power Inserter>In–PVLA30–Out>Antenna

Don’t want to fry the new toy out of the box. :slight_smile:


#28

Input to the Amp is from the Antenna, so…

Antenna—DCBlocker—[AMP/In AMP/OUT]—Power/Inserter—DCBlocker—Dongle

The DC-Blockers are important do not assume you’re good, test with an Ohmmeter. If the antenna is the type that is a DC short you’ll need a blocker. If the power-inserter allows DC in both directions, then you’ll need a blocker between it and the dongle as well.

…Tom


#29

Thanks Tom, that’s what I figured.

I have the DC blockers at the extreme ends between the antenna and dongle, I just omitted them for brevity.


#30

You’re good to go then, here’s hoping you increase your stats. :slight_smile:
…Tom


#31

Since you mentioned it, I put the amp in and removed the filter just for kicks right last night around UTC change over.

Here are the results from day one:

With the play by play here:

These results are a bit skewed since today is one of the higher volume days, but not to shabby overall. I’ll give it a week to normalize the average positioning report before adding the filter back in to see how much it jumps there.

Full write up to come in separate thread after that. :slight_smile:


#32

I bought the HabAmp recommended by FlightAware. This is designed for USB stick receivers. It has doubled my figures.

ava.upuaut.net/store/index.php?r … duct_id=85

Planefinders log is measuring over 1000 updates a minute during peak times.

You can see the improvement from yestedays graph.

This is feeding to FlightAware, FR24 and Planefinder.





#33

Great increase, well done.
…Tom


#34

Would love to have the cash to splash around on ‘recommended’ hardware. But I cannot justify a 50BP + shipping to Canada to my wife/accountant. Leftover parts and garage sales are where I shop.
…Tom


#35

Yes, it is expensive but at least I don’t have to pay international shipping. I’m also of an age that I may as well spend my money as leave it to the government. :laughing:

It’s usually me that has to pay through the nose to get parts from the US, sometimes the delivery costs more than the goods. It’s nice to find something we actually make here.