Help understanding the components between antenna and Pi

Hello Everyone,
I’m a noob to this whole ADS-B thing. I got started back in April when looking for something to do with my Raspberry Pi. I started with the basic setup using the NooElec R820T w/ stock antenna. I have the NooElec antenna in my dinning room window. But like everyone else…I want to see more! I tried building a CoCo antenna, but couldn’t make it work (Youtube made it look so easy) LOL. I just received the FA antenna today, but don’t yet have the components to connect it.

I really want to put this outside. But I don’t have a good understanding of electornics, antennas, etc. When do you need a filter, amp, lightning arrester, dc blocker?

In what order are they normally placed between antenna and NooElec?

I hear a lot of talk about coax cable and signal loss. How do I deal with the space between the antenna and electronic components?

Thanks for any help you can offer,

Brian Harvey

You’re in the USA - lets see what we can find.

You really need to place the antenna above roof height so it gets an all around clear view of the sky to the horizon … we want to see the planes that 200 miles away not just the ones overhead. so to do that you’ll need something to fix the antenna to that will hold it straight.

Then you’ll need a length of low loss coaxial cable to carry the signal down. Different cables have qualities and costs - RG6 cable is reasonably low loss, easy to get, easy to handle and inexpensive. so you’ll need 20 feet of RG6.

Then you need connectors for the cable - most convenient are twist on F connectors (of the right diameter to suit your RG6)

OK, now we need to connect the F-male connectors up both ends

You need an femalmale to MCX pigtal for the Pi end like this one - amazon.com/Female-Right-Angl … cx+pigtail

and you’ll need an N-Female to F-fenail for the antenna end amazon.com/Super-Power-Suppl … e+f+female

(just make sure the antenna is N-Male)

Now you need to wrap the outside connections with self amalgamating tape to keep the rain out of the joints - amazon.com/Ultratape-Repair- … magamating

dont just leave the RG6 hanging from the antenna - it will pull the connectors off - cable tie it to the antenna support.

On last thing - do run a grounding wire from the shield of the RG6 (exposed metal of the F-Connector to ground. This isn’t lightning protection (nothing like sufficient foer that) it’s just to discharge static build up - otherwise it will eventually blow the Pi Ethernet port.

That will get you going

Then you need to look at lightning protection
then amplifiers, filters and so on to pimp your Pi

.
Here is a sketch showing the setup

Initially I’d not bother with the DC Blocker (your antenna doesnt need it anyway), amplifier, DC Power inserter … you don’t need them to get going - though they will get you 20% more distance when you’re ready.

Thanks, that helps! I guess my next concern is grounding and lightening protection. Is lightening a real concern? How about grounding to protect from static electricity?

Thanks,
Brian

The static was the reason that I said ground the coax shield.

Grounding for lightening protection is more specialised - I have a heavy copper (6mm section) cable from my mast to a ground spike … should I get a strike the Pi would probably vaporise, but the house should remain relatively undamaged (would need electrical wiring inspected, etc) … but it’s unlikely

Think about it. You stick that antenna up in the air and you have a lightning rod.
Grounding surely reduces the risk of major damage (but does not eliminate it) at a minimal expense.

For US based installs, you have to follow the NEC and local codes. Linked below is a good article explaining the requirements and why they exist.

http://www.reeve.com/Documents/Articles%20Papers/AntennaSystemGroundingRequirements_Reeve.pdf

Do you have part numbers for the power inserter, amplifier, and DC blocker?

If you search eBay.com or Amazon.com for key words “satellite amplifier”, “dc voltage blocker”, and “dc power inserter”, you will get a huge list to choose from.

I can give you the part # of what I use:

  1. Amplifier: RCA model D903 http://ebay.com/itm/RCA-In-Line-Satellite-Amplifier-/121713057271
  2. Power Inserter: Home brew :slight_smile:
  3. DC blocker: Home brew :slight_smile:

Other forum member are requested to give the make & model of these items they use. Thanks.

@ABCD

  1. Amplifier: RCA model D903 ebay.com/itm/RCA-In-Line-Satelli … 1713057271

Now for my rant!!! Does not ship outside the US!!!. Those that do use EBay international priority shipping!!! So $8 for the amp and $30 for shipping. ABCD I think there might be a market for you to buy some RCAs and sell them. :laughing: 8)

Now I know there are dozens of amps from China, but can anyone recommend one they are using?

Phill

I did not purchase RCA Amplifier online. I found it in a hobby & electronics store in my city. It cost me Canadian $4.46 (= US $3.34). The purchase was in-store, so no shipping charges. :slight_smile:

Good idea. I will purchase some from this store and sell on eBay & Amazon with 100% profit at Canadian $8.86 (= US $6.68) + shipping :slight_smile:

Now I know there are dozens of amps from China, but can anyone recommend one they are using?

Phill

Before purchasing RCA Amplifier, I purchase an unbranded low cost Amp on eBay, seller from UK. It did not work for ADS-B :frowning:

Recently I purchased another unbranded low cost amplifier on eBay, seller from China. It did not work for ADS-B :frowning:

.

Go for it!! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I’m your first customer!

Phill

PS I see my dog “Luna” on the packet. That must be a good omen!

Thank you!

These are few examples for guidance. Search eBay.com and Amazon.com for large number of choices.

In Line Satellite Amplifiers

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N7DY4E

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Z7YVP6

Power inserter (requires separate ac to dc adaptor):

http://ebay.com/itm/Power-Inserter-for-Channel-Master-Preamplifiers-RF-Amplifier-Inverter-PCT-MPI-1G-/262131528258

http://ebay.com/itm/Commscope-power-inserter-for-your-cable-TV-RF-amplifier-/261440118825

Power Inserter - complete with ac to dc adaptor.

http://ebay.com/itm/PS-10-Power-Supply-Inserter-for-Holland-and-Pico-TruSpec-LA-Series-Amplifiers-/201469961853

DC Voltage Blocker

http://ebay.com/itm/NEW-Coaxial-F-Connector-DC-Voltage-Blocking-In-Line-Coupler-25-7901-14668-/251432963230

http://ebay.com/itm/DC-power-block-F-in-line-coupler-coaxial-TV-cable-voltage-blocking-adapter-/370609430351


.

There are so many available - all coming out of little factories in China - there is no particular brand or part number to go for … they’re all low cost and pretty similar in performance.

ABCD thanks for the information elsewhere on a home made power injector. I would have done it today but despite a large parts box, just didn’t have the inductor.

I had to hacksaw the top of the box off of mine. Once you had made yours did you encapsulate it of just tape the cut off lid back on? Thinking about it, does it have to be soldered back on for shielding?

Kind regards

Phill

If you dont have an inductor, dont worry. You can make a DIY inductor by using a wire from an scarp piece of telephone cable or network cable. Larger the dia of coil, and larger the number of turns in the coil, better the performance. Practically more than 7 turns cannot be squeezed in a splitter box, and coil INNER diameter of about 1/4 inch or 6 mm will be ok (Inner dia = the dia of bolt or drill bit on which you will wind the coil), but it is not critical, you may use somewhat larger or smaller coil diameter.

First image below shows one made by member jepolch
Second image below is a table of calculation by me for various coil diameters.

Image 1 of 3

Image 2 of 3

Image 3 of 3

I had to hacksaw the top of the box off of mine. Once you had made yours did you encapsulate it of just tape the cut off lid back on? Thinking about it, does it have to be soldered back on for shielding?

Kind regards

Phill

I did not hacksaw the top off the box. I removed the back cover of the TV splitter. This cover is a rectangular piece of iron sheet , glued to the housing.

Since the back cover is recessed, it is difficult to remove it. I placed a large flat screw driver in the middle of it and hammered the screw driver lightly. The back cover bent in the middle with edges popped up. I then placed a thin screw driver under the popped edges of back cover, pushed it up, and it came out.

I did not try to put back the back cover as my installation is indoors. In case any one wants, he has to straighten the back cover by hammering, and glue it to the housing like it was done by the manufacturer.

First image below is photo of my set up with Satellite Amplifier, DIY Power Inserter and DIY DC Voltage Blocker.
Second image below is “How to Make a DIY Power Inserter” tutorial.

IMAGE 1 of 2

IMAGE 2 of 2

Is the dog in your new profile picture “Luna”?

Wow, you own a private plane!

@ABCD,

Sorry guys OT.

How easy it is to misdirect!

Sorry, no my profile picture is Daisy. She’s a Gos Ratera Valenciana. She walked in about 8 years ago age 6 weeks. Luna looks like the smaller of the two dogs on the RCA packet, some kind of spaniel. Also walked in about 8 years ago, but she’s slightly older. I’ll find a picture and update my profile… :arrow_right:

EC LXB is not my private aeroplane, though I do get to fly her when I can afford it. Owning her would be great but not on my pension, :laughing: :laughing: She’s an Aeroprakt A22 Foxbat. I think they are called A22 Valor in the US. Owned by Newhorizonsmicrolighting in Spain.

Thanks for the advice on the power injector. I was waiting for the inductor as there is no rush. Struggling to get an amp at the moment. Laughingly the last one I( looked at was $8.99 and $40 shipping. I wonder how some people actually sell on EBAY.

I’m turning towards etching a board and making my own at the moment.

Take care all.

Phill