Looks ok.
Remember you will need 3 sma to F adaptors. One each side of the LNA and a third at the dongle.
@abcd567 The LNA does not pass DC through so no need for the additional blocking capacitor.
Looks ok.
Remember you will need 3 sma to F adaptors. One each side of the LNA and a third at the dongle.
@abcd567 The LNA does not pass DC through so no need for the additional blocking capacitor.
Nah it doesn’t, that would be a bad LNA.
You’d only do this if you expect another LNA to be used like with satellite LNBs at the dish.
Could you reiterate how much “regular coax” and which antenna you intend to run?
Edit: nvm saw the thread title ty @abcd567
Any antenna will do if you don’t want to spend any more money
I’ve had excellent reception with just a quick spider reasonably close to the filtered LNA.
Or is the junction box for the LNA with the 2 adapters connecting it to male F connectors from the incoming and outgoing coax?
That sounds like a good plan.
Just remember you’ll need a third adapters from F to SMA at the SDR.
Oops, although I did recommend this box, it is too small to house the LNA.
Perhaps the 3-way version is big enough
No, as @wiedehopf mentioned, the Triple Filter LNA does not pass DC to the antenna, so you can hook any antenna to it. Only concern might be static build up so in fact it would be better to connect a DC short antenna to it.
Between antenna with N-connector (Vinnant FE/COL) and the LNA you can put a N to SMA 1ft - 3ft pigtail (=short coax cable) For an antenna with SMA-connector a SMA to SMA pigtail.
N to SMA something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Low-Loss-Extension-Booster-Repeater-Coaxial/dp/B08L1Q9RBP/
I already have a coupe SMA to female F adapters, so I should be fine. Thanks for looking out for me.
Yep. Already have a couple.
I was planning to start out just using my Cantenna. If reception is good, was then considering switching out to Vinnant’s antenna. Since it has an F-mount, it should be an easy switch.
If you have some F coax lying around, make yourself a quick spider.
As you should know how long from the antenna to the junction box, you only need a single F connector for it (no need for a connector near the actual antenna, just in the junction box)
You can stiffen the coax easily by taping or (softly) cable-tying it to some sort of pole.
But the cantenna will work as well, just mentioning it.
Yep. This is the plan. I found some shorter coax cables (1.5 feet) to run from the LNA to the antenna. I just didn’t list them here in my list.
My neighbor was awesome enough to find an old dish assembly and gave me the mast. So I pulled the trigger on my shopping list today. I’m sure I’ll come back with more questions once I get my setup up and running, but I do have this question for now:
Does the coax to the antenna go on the “Out” side, and the coax to the Pi go to the “In” side?
It goes the other way, IN goes to the antenna and OUT goes to the receiver (raspberry) there is also a 5v print to tell you from were to power the lna
Antenna connects to the in side (signal input).
Dongle with bias-t connects to the out side with the +5V (signal output).
@pretoescuro, @tech0: Thank you!
The LNA and new dongle with built in bias tee arrived and everything is hooked up (on the ground). Here are the results. Left is indoor spider connected with FlightAware Pro Stick Plus, Right is the new Nooelec SmartTee with the ADSB LNA connected to a cantenna outdoors:
I’m pretty impressed. Thanks to all for your guidance, expertise, and your patience!
Will this LNA get warm like the dongle does with the power running to it? I’m thinking of carving out a Styrofoam block to keep it secure in the weather box.
It gets a little warm, nothing nutty.
I would choose another solution.
Honestly the coax will be stiff enough to keep it in place.
To not stress the connectors i’d try and fix the coax in place if anything.
Might want to try velcro.
Running into an issue now, where when using the Nooelec SmarTee, Dump1090 freezes. Any recommendations?