FlightAware Discussions

ADS-B receiver "Christmas Edition"

ADS-B receiver, Edition “Dresdner Christstollen” :rofl::joy::rofl:

Uh, i should unwire the power and antenna cable

1 Like

If somebody is asking if WiFi is working, the answer is yes.
The signal strength is sufficient enough for connecting the device to the WiFi Router and deliver data properly

Isn’t a “Flight Feeder” something quite different?

Are you trying to improve the aesthetics or shield noise?
It certainly looks better, but if the wifi gets out, noise will also get in/out.

The pi case seems unnecessary and it’ll cool better without it.

Yes, it is different. But i am feeding several sites with flight information, so that’s my “internal” name. Don’t count me on that.

I am simply trying to improve the outdoor location. The aesthetic factor is just because i had no other case. I do not need rain protection because the roof of the house covers it perfectly.

WiFi still runs as before, with higher traffic today, i still have a stable connection to my Repeater with 72 Mbit/s

Yes, the PI case itself became unnecessary now, but it was my first attempt. Later in spring i have to improve it by removing the case and adding a fan to avoid overheating.

I like it, it’s pretty.

In electrical jargon there are “wet” locations, “damp” locations and “indoors”. Your location under the roof, but still outside is a “damp” location. Still needs some protection (sealing) otherwise the humidity will eventually get inside and corrode your parts. Condensation happens…

Rhetorical question: I don’t know why people continue to insist in installing their Pi and receivers in boxes outdoors. Is coax cable that scary to use?

When you consider the length of the cable I’ve got, CAT6 is far cheaper and less lossy than coax.

Is not that much more expensive - a box with 500’ of RG6 is $49: https://www.amazon.com/Shield-Satellite-Black-Coaxial-Cable/dp/B0069F4H3G
I am using now a pre-connectrorized RG6 - bought the 150’ for $17: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015UPRIU4

This helps me keeping my devices dry and relatively cool. Thermal noise is the biggest noise generator at HF. Moisture will eat metals eventually.

As for loss, in my experience a LNA has sufficient gain to cover the eventual losses.

But, of course, that’s just my 2 cents…

1 Like

You will need drill holes into walls or window frames if you want to use an antenna outside with the device inside
And if it’s not your own flat, but rented, you might not be allowed to do it, independent from how cheap or expensive your cable is.
A window through cable is not an option as you’re losing too much signal.

As my device has a good location which keeps it safe from wind, rain and snow. i am fine with that. It is outside since two weeks and the temperature itself keeps it dry, also from condensation. No issues at all so far.

However the device is not a mega million device. if it’s broken, i simply get a new one
The values from the reports didn’t change regarding noise compared to the inside location. And if the moisture is “eventually” a concern, i can work on that when it comes up.

Some silica gel replaced over time might help as well.

1 Like

Something with a heater in a box has no issues with moisture, at least not in a Middle European climate.
Making sure no rain or spray gets into the box is all that is necessary.

Edit: By heater i mean he device itself …

thanks, understood

The device is protected based on the large roof from rain independent from which direction. So it’s only temperature and air humidity itself.

In reality it was running without any case the first two weeks. Only the raspi in his default case and the stick connected.
But i wanted to make it a little “nicer”.
Maybe during Easter, i will mount two bunny ears :slight_smile:

From our move i have lots of silica gel bags available, maybe i put them in at least during the humid season.

EDIT: A sun protector seem to be more required. There is a short time during the morning where the roof is not covering sun, at least not in winter times:

image

Renamed the thread title to avoid confusion

From my shack to the top of the mast, I’d need a 45m run of coax. I won’t use anything less than Hyperflex 10 at 1090MHz which is £3.15/metre so that’s over £140.

I’m a strong believer in minimising coax loss and (more importantly, keeping a good s/n ratio) so if I had that length of coax, I’d put the LNA at the masthead.

We’ve had this discussion before and I’m not doing it again :slight_smile:

Your point is well made, but less of an issue for more ‘domestic’ lengths.

1 Like

I am actually runing 45 meters of cox with a no-name LNC/filter. The cable is the cheap kind that I have linked ($17). Antenna is surrounded by trees.
It’s not so bad considering that I am at #194 world wide now.
So it goes… cable loss is not at all important when you have a Low Noise amp with 20…30dB gain before that cable.

-W helps too. :wink:

I am using 5 Meter of five times shielded wire, works perfect also the loss is not significant for this length. they are selling 50 Meters for approx 50-60 euro

Running my blue FA stick with a gain setting 42.1, achieving max range for my location.

Providing you have the LNA at the masthead, I’d agree.

1 Like

Why would one not have an LNA and run a long cable? The tuner chip noise is absolutely abysmal without an LNA. The average for RT820T2 is 3.dB versus 1dB for a good LNA. And this is without any filtering! Adding filters in front of the cable, even a cavity filter, adds more attenuation to that.
BTW, adding summer temperatures to the receiver chip adds noise too.
But hey, more power top whomever runs those electronics outside. I just offered the alternative idea, that’s all.

And pointed to @foxhunter the fact that installation under a cover is still a damp location and the box in the picture didn’t look sealed enough for that. Condensation happens.

I will add a humidity sensor into the case and will let you know…

Seem to be that i have now achieved the max range based on my location.