Love the roses. Nice touch!
Cheers and 73 - Jon N7UV
Ok, I think I’ll try to make the Cantenna, as I question my ability to make the co-co, and have never soddered before. I am wondering what supplies I need for the Cantenna.
So parts list(and my understanding of how they go together):
1 can(Any suggestions for drilling hole or cutting it? I only have a few hand tools and a scissors)
MCX-Cable F adapter: amazon.com/coaxial-cable-fem … B00CKG6T9I
→ Connects Dongle to Antenna
A couple of F-F connectors amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10- … B00K2E4XFM
→ 1 in can to connect top part, to cable down
→ Do I need a second one for a second piece of coax from the inside of the can to just outside it? Or can I connect straight to the dongle connector with some Coax?
Some Coax
→ Can I get by with just a few 6’ patch cables of RG6U(amazon.com/Southwire-5691844 … B0069F4H3G) and a tool that’s designed to cut and strip it as needed?
→ If I can get by with patch cables, Do I need 2, or do I need more, and how do I expose the copper fillament, exacto knife and split it?
Another thing I’ll be trying will be moving the box around the house to other spots and possibly the attic, and have it connect via wi-fi.
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CUTTING: A standard drink can made of aluminum (example Pepsi, Coke, etc 355 mL/12 oz dia 65mm) can be easily cut by a Stanley knife or pair of scissors (I have tried both).
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DRILLING HOLE: Drilling is best done by a drill machine, but if you don’t have it, use nails. First use a thin nail to pinch a small hole, then a larger one to enlarge, than another still larger to enlarge the hole to required size.
MCX-Cable F adapter: amazon.com/coaxial-cable-fem … B00CKG6T9I
→ Connects Dongle to Antenna
MCX-Cable F adapter/pigtail is necessary and the one shown in your Amazon link is ok.
A couple of F-F connectors amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10- … B00K2E4XFM
→ 1 in can to connect top part, to cable down
→ Do I need a second one for a second piece of coax from the inside of the can to just outside it? Or can I connect straight to the dongle connector with some Coax?
You can use any of two options:
Option 1: The coax cable from the connector inside the can directly goes to dongle. In this case you will need only ONE piece of F-F connector (also known as F type barrel connector).
Option 2: A short piece of Coax from inside the coax to outside+ another longer piece from end of short piece to dongle. In this case you will need two F-F connectors, one inside the can, other to join the two coax.
NOTE: The coupler shown in Amazon does not have any nut & washers, You will need 1 nut & 2 washers for the coupler to fix it inside the can. The second coupler for joining two coax (if you use option 2) does not require nuts & washers. I have purchased a pack of two couplers (which included 1 nut & 2 washers for each coupler) from a local store for $1.50 (Dollar Shop). You check your local satellite TV shops in your area, you will sure get this coupler with nut & washers, and very cheap also.
Some Coax
→ Can I get by with just a few 6’ patch cables of RG6U(amazon.com/Southwire-5691844 … B0069F4H3G) and a tool that’s designed to cut and strip it as needed?
→ If I can get by with patch cables, Do I need 2, or do I need more, and how do I expose the copper fillament, exacto knife and split it?
Easier way is to use prepared cable with connectors pre-made at both ends. However having a spool or length of cable has the advantage that it can be cut to a length suitable for your installation.
Fixing F-connectors at two ends is very easy if you use TWIST ON type F-connectors.
http://www.amazon.com/Twist–RG-6-Connector-Crimping-Pack/dp/B002IPEKZQ
All you need is a knife & cutting pliers to prepare the ends, then screw on the F-connector. You can get these Twist On type F-connectors very cheap from your local satellite TV shop. See these videos for fixing F-connector:
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How to Install a Coax Cable F Connector with Common Tools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0i-YWTmC-l8 -
Terminating RG6 Coaxial Cable with F Type Connector:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqceo9xNCSo
Another thing I’ll be trying will be moving the box around the house to other spots and possibly the attic, and have it connect via wi-fi.
Good idea.
THE SPLIT CANTENNA - A HYBRID OF CANTENNA & SPIDER
New concept, not yet tried.
24-hrs trial run & VRS Range plot yet to be done
Cool idea! You should show your layout of parts for the original cantenna from the PlaneFinder thread.
Coax in both the above Amazon links is Quad Shield.
For indoor home use (very little electromagnetic interference/noise), this is like using a cannon to kill a fly.
Use normal commercial quality RG6U which is cheaper than the quad shield coax.
My Maximum Range Plot
My System:
Cantenna + Satellite in Line Amplifier RCA D903 (13-18 dB) + 50 feet cheap quality RG6 Coax Cable + DVB-T Receiver.
Located indoors, near a large, wall sized glass window in an apartment at 60 feet above ground level, surrounded by many high rise buildings 150 to 250 feet tall. View completely blocked on one side by my building. The antenna can “see” only 180 degrees out of 360 degrees, and in this viewable 180 degrees, it’s view is blocked in several directions by surrounding high-rise buildings, resulting in sharp spike like drop in range in the direction of these buildings.
I like this presentation, range plot with antenna shown on the same picture.
Well, finally cut my can, and coax, it’s ugly in terms of accuracy, but hopefully it’ll be a bit better than it was before… Next attempt will be to put the system in the attic(currently on the second floor inside).
You forgot to remove from WHIP, the black outer jacket, the braid & aluminm foil. The whip should be either BARE wire, or wire+core insulation.
Ok that should be easy enough to do… I didn’t remove it since in several other diagrams/pictures the shielding was left on… and what’s impressive it seems I’m getting better receiption with it on than the packaged antenna.
I found this simple and easy to make antenna from another forum.
The Range mentioned below by the antenna maker is remarkable for such a simple antenna.
“Mine is made with 33cm unshielded TV coax and as a ground plane the bottom of a thunafish tin. More than 200nm.”
Now that is what I would call “cutting edge technology” 
Well said! 
WANT AN EASY-TO-MAKE INDOOR ANTENNA, BETTER THAN DONGLE’s STOCK ANTENNA?
Here comes the Platenna
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16477825400_543ff511c8.jpg
Range Rings are 50 nm apart. Outermost ring is 300nm radius
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16663837941_3f765bce3d.jpg
Collect the Stuff
Tip:
(1) For RG6 coax lengths in excess of 5m/15ft, coax attenuation will be high, and an amplifier may become necessary.
(2) Even with short lengths of Coax, use of amplifier increases plane count & range.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8649/16042910714_419b140857.jpg
Assemble the Platenna
The whip at top is ¼ wavelength (68mm)
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8643/16479079239_68749ecd30.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/16042915024_1a259a26ee.jpg
I’m curious if there is an advantage to leaving the core around the center conductor? I see that often in people’s antenna design.
I personally just use a 68mm stub of electrical wire for mine.
No, there is no advantage in leaving the core insulation around center conductor. I think I am the first one who started this practice, and other are copying.
The reasons why I do not remove core insulation are:
(1) It makes the whip visible and look more beautiful than the thin bare core wire of 1 mm dia.
(2) I am lazy and want to save the effort to remove it 