My 2nd antenna, Franklin Collinear Dipole, also built 2 years ago.
Range Plot of Franklin using adsbScope.
Max Range = 450 kms +
If you’re not familiar with navigating around from the command line in the first place, the last thing you need to be worrying about right now is over-clocking. At this point, I think we’d just like to see you respond to some of the other useful suggestions we’ve sent your way over the past few days. 
Which model Pi do you have? If it’s a Pi 2, what he wrote won’t even apply to you.
Matt
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Actually, the Pi 2 is only working with 600 MHz and it is dynamically overclocking, if the CPU usage exceeds 50% (with standard settings, without force_turbo).
So, the ‘900 MHz’, which you can read in the specs of many websites is not the whole truth. How you can compare it to the old Pi, (regarding architecture, 4 cores @600 MHz vs. 1 core @xxx MhZ) is not that easy to say.
I would not say that the different settings have no influence to the PiAware numbers, without some evaluation. You never now, until you try.
Regards,
Kabuse
The irony is that the reason that RP-SMA was used was to make regulators a bit happier about the possibility of consumers swapping in different antennas, by using a hard-to-find connector. But since wireless manufacturers de-facto standardized on RP-SMA, these days it’s easier to find RP-SMAs than regular SMAs…
Have never had an issue with Amazon.
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I thought the reasoning was that hams were tired of busting the barrel connectors off their radios, where with RP-SMA, if you busted your antenna off, you could unthread the remaining connector from inside the radio and start over easier.
I suppose it could be both, but this seems to be the widely accepted reasoning:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMA_connector#Reverse_polarity_SMA
I believe I have the Pi2
Yup, it’s a Raspberry Pi 2 900 MHz Quad-Core CPU (1GB)
So what can I do to improve my system even more? Filter is working now and my #'s haven’t really jumped like I had hoped, today will the first full 24 hrs with the filter so tomorrow will tell me the increase rate if any, from the filter.
What is the dump thing people keep referring to?
Dump1090 is the program that receives and mostly decodes the signals.
Then you have various feeders that do work with the data - mostly to condense it and format it - before feeding it to the servers where it is combined with data from other sources to present a big picture.
Several of us have taken the time to type out various suggestions over the past day or two and are attempting to help you out…but it appears that you’re not terribly interested in responding to those suggestions? 
Well, it’s working as well as your temporary fix will work (which hopefully didn’t harm the filter). I provided links to the various adapters that you’d need to install the filter permanently… If you ordered them on Thursday evening, they may have even been delivered to you on Saturday. Not sure whether you did anything with that info or not as you didn’t really respond to that message, either.
There was never a guarantee that you’d see more aircraft simply by adding a filter. If nothing else, the filter will block a lot of unnecessary RF that your antenna would otherwise send to your SDR dongle, which can help to clean-up some of the data that you are wanting to receive from nearby aircraft. While I admire your determination, the filter isn’t a priority and really could have waited for the proper adapters to arrive (as was mentioned previously).
A few of us have made comments about what would be the first truly helpful step in making your setup better - moving things off of the roof (for multiple reasons). We’re still not sure what your current plan is there?
FlightAware’s ‘Build a PiAware ADS-B Receiver’ instruction page (which you would have followed) mentions Dump1090 repeatedly, and you can’t swing a cat in these forums without hitting a discussion about Dump1090 or Dump1090-Mutability. Wanting to mess with Dump1090 at this point would really be putting the cart before the horse, bud. You’ll need to be able to properly SSH in to your Pi and have a basic understanding of how to navigate around first.
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I ordered the correct connectors, both from China and the Amazon links, I’m out of town till next week so they will be there when I arrive back.
As for the roof, I’m going to be building and enclosure for the system, I was, as I’ve stated, wanting to get the thing to work properly before I do this and being that the chance of rain in the next six months is not going to happen I have no fear of moisture intrusion. This also as I’ve read, keeps the feed cables as short as I can get them. If the proximity to the satellite dish is not a problem then I can figure out a secure mount for its current location.
If I have to gain access to it in order to modify the dump, then the current location is easy to get to. Attic access is virtually non existent and this is in a far easier location.
I’ll take a look at learning the SSH you mentioned.
Thanks
Mattbna,
Please take it easy on the the new feeder (moone), I believe he’s trying his best to answer most suggestions. Let’s not drive him away because you cannot wait for a reply. That wouldn’t be cool. Remember, we are not there, we don’t know his personal situation, and we are only making suggestions, whether or not he agrees with or take our suggestions or advice his up to him. Everyone has to walk their own path especially when learning something that’s new to them.
And like any suggestion, you can choose to ignore this one.
Have a great weekend, Tom
Earlier in this thread is my 4-Legged Spider, which I currently have in a 2nd floor window. I plan to replace my Cantenna in the attic with this new 8-Legged Spider. The Cantenna has performed well, but thought it was time try the 8-Legged version. Both of my RPIs are also running Perfect Vision amps with great results on aircraft and positions.
Marty
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14758318/8LeggedSpider.jpg
Thanks, I try to read and take all suggestions you guys write. I don’t have a programmer background but I can figure these things out with some guidance.
Like anything new, it takes time to figure out/learn what everyone thinks/takes for granted, that one should know and then things become easier. Some speak in acronym and naturally it takes some learning to know what every little thing actually means/implies.
I don’t have access to any electronic testers other than a Fluke meter, I phone “mini circuits” and found that the direction of their filter is irrelevant as well as I learned that there is no continuity running through it as it’s a bypass filter. Then they told me to put it on some meter graph and see the range etc… I was lost at that point but I did learn that given I had the correct connectors a Fluke meter would not have answered the question of what was wrong.
Thanks again… Now to research SSH
Tom:
Wasn’t trying to give him a hard time, and it wasn’t an issue of waiting for a reply. I was more concerned about the fact that multiple people had already provided answers/suggestions to questions that were being asked over again. If you ask for advice/help/suggestions and a few people take the time to respond…and then you don’t really respond to them when they do, but ask everyone again a few days later… Well…
As I’ve stated before, most everyone here will gladly provide plenty of help to get anyone up and running with a solid setup. Prior to your reply this morning, he replied with some good information that will help us continue to help him. I apologize if my reply was taken as too harsh.
Matt
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If you’re going to leave the amp connected directly to the bottom of the antenna (which will eventually require some self-amalgamating tape or another solution to protect it), you’ll easily have enough signal to run a feed line down in to the house (closet, perhaps?) and get all of this stuff off of the roof without losing much of anything. I’ve got around 25ft of RG6/U coax between the base of my CoCo antenna on the roof and my amp and don’t notice any difference in range from what I had when the feed line from the antenna to the amp was only around 5ft long. The added loss of the extra 20 feet of coax at 1090MHz should only be around 1.36dB, which isn’t even worth worrying about. It’s also well within the range of what I’ll ignore to keep my feed gear inside in the air conditioning and have it somewhere that’s much easier to get to.
Shouldn’t be an issue at all with your spider antenna being higher than the dish.
Once you have puTTY installed on another computer on the same network, you’ll be able to easily access the Pi command line using SSH and shouldn’t need physical access to any of the actual hardware of your feed setup unless you’re working on the hardware itself. To connect to the Pi from another computer using puTTY/SSH, you will need to know the IP address that your router has assigned to the Pi.
Sounds like they took what we explained the other day and went hardcore radio geek with it. Ultimately, we’re probably much easier to understand. 
Your issue with using the wrong adapter was an easy one to figure out. Once you have a chance to install the correct hardware, you’ll be good to go.
Matt
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Looks good. The spider type antenna has worked best for me, followed by the cantenna.
IF… I understand you correctly, the IP address is the address that appears on “My ADS-B” page?
If so, once I know this how do I access it?
Thanks!!!
STEP 1: From Flight Aware’s “My ADS-B” page (or from your Router’s settings), find your RPi’s IP on your Local Network.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/550/19229525111_dc619c1db4_o.png
STEP 2: Start puTTY, you will get this window:
STEP 3: Type (or copy paste) your RPi’s IP and click “open” button. This will open a Command Window
STEP 4: On the Command Window, type your RPi’s Name & Password, and you will login.
After login, you can give any command to your RPi. For example if you want to reboot RPi, type “sudo reboot” and press Enter button on your keyboard. To shutdown, type “sudo shutdown -h now” and press Enter button on your keyboard (If you shutdown, then to restart, you will have to unplug and replug the power to RPi)
